How to Brew Pu’er Tea

1. Preparation Before Brewing

• Choosing Water The relationship between water and tea has been well-discussed by ancient scholars. Phrases like “without water, tea cannot be discussed,” and “tea must be brought out by water; eight parts tea, ten parts water, the tea will also be ten parts,” highlight the importance of water in brewing tea. In Yunnan, there is an abundance of spring water. Areas near Kunming, such as “Miaogaosi” in the western suburbs, “Xishan,” “Baohongsi” in Yiliang, and “Xilongtang” in Chengjiang, all offer excellent spring water for tea brewing. Spring water enhances the characteristics of tea: some highlight fragrance, some sweetness, some smoothness, while others bring vitality. The best choice for brewing is fresh, clean, and pure water that doesn’t make the tea taste bitter or astringent. Many tea lovers in Yunnan now prefer to use natural spring water, as it enhances both the tea’s fragrance and the water’s natural vitality. For aged Pu’er tea, water that’s been stored in clay pots (“nourished water”) can better bring out the “aged flavor” of the tea.
• Choosing Utensils
  1. Teapot
     The best teapot for brewing Pu’er tea is a Yixing purple clay teapot. Purple clay has good air permeability and adsorptive properties that improve the tea’s mellow taste and increase the brightness of the tea. The teapot’s volume should be adequate to allow the tea leaves to expand and release flavor. For a group of 2-3 people, a 250ml Yixing teapot is ideal; for a larger group, 300-400ml is suitable. New teapots should be boiled with tea water to remove any “kiln” and earthy flavors, then seasoned by use (commonly known as “raising the teapot”). After a period of use, it enhances the fragrance of the tea. Porcelain teapots and porcelain gaiwans can also be used for brewing Pu’er tea.
  2. Water Boiling Utensils
     A common way to boil water is with an electric kettle, but for brewing high-quality Pu’er tea, a copper kettle or clay kettle is recommended for boiling water, as these help preserve the vitality of spring water and raise water temperature.
  3. Teacups
     White or celadon porcelain cups are ideal, as they allow you to appreciate the tea’s beautiful color. The cup should be larger than those used for oolong tea, with a thick-walled, large-mouthed design that complements Pu’er tea’s rich, mellow flavors, aligning with the robust tea-drinking habits of Yunnan people.
  4. Fairness Pitcher
     A transparent glass fairness pitcher is ideal for Pu’er tea. Pu’er tea is known for its sparkling, vibrant color, which is often compared to “aged red wine,” “amber,” “pomegranate red,” and “ruby red.” Observing the tea’s color has become a unique feature of Pu’er tea culture. The color and texture of the tea can vary depending on the tea’s origin, processing methods, storage conditions, and aging time.
  5. Tea Picker
     A tea picker, often made of hardwood or bamboo, is used to break apart compressed tea blocks. This helps to prevent damaging the tea leaves, allowing for a better mix of surface and interior leaves, which in turn accurately reflects the quality of compressed tea.

2. Preparing the Tea For compressed Pu’er tea, there is a difference between the inner and outer layers of tea. Even if the same tea leaves are used throughout a compressed tea block, the outer and inner parts may develop distinct flavors over time. Therefore, before brewing, it is necessary to break apart the tea block and let it breathe in a ceramic jar. Mixing the surface and inner layers of the tea leaves is recommended, allowing the tea to “wake up” before brewing. This is similar to the practice of letting wine “breathe” before drinking.

3. Understanding the Tea’s Characteristics Yunnan Pu’er tea comes in loose-leaf and compressed forms, new and aged varieties, raw and ripe teas, as well as varying degrees of fermentation. Each type of tea has its own characteristics. Only by understanding the individual traits of the tea and using proper brewing techniques can the tea’s unique flavor be brought out. The tea’s characteristics determine the selection of teapots, the amount of tea used, the water temperature, brewing speed, and even the type of water used.

For example, old, rough tea differs from tender tea, raw cakes differ from ripe cakes, aged tea differs from fresh tea, lightly fermented tea differs from heavily fermented tea, and teas with a bitter base differ from those with a sweet base. Testing the tea by brewing it helps familiarize oneself with the tea’s personality, which in turn helps determine the appropriate brewing method.

4. Brewing Methods

1. Wide Pot “Root Leave Steeping” Method
   For high-quality Pu’er tea, use the “wide pot root leave steeping method,” where part of the tea soup is left in the teapot after each brew. Generally, keep 40% of the tea soup after each pour. Each time the tea is poured out, refill the teapot with boiling water, allowing the tea to steep slowly, adjusting the flavor with each infusion.
2. Medium Pot “Kung Fu Tea” Method
   This method involves pouring out the tea completely after each brew, without leaving any tea in the teapot. The teapot size should depend on the number of people drinking tea. This method works well for brewing both new and aged Pu’er tea. It’s particularly effective for lightly fermented teas or teas with slight off-flavors, as it can help remove the initial odd taste while enhancing the purity of later infusions.
3. Gaiwan Brewing Method
   The gaiwan method helps to maintain a higher brewing temperature and enhances the tea’s fragrance. This method is better suited for older, rougher teas but can cause fine teas to become over-steeped and develop a bitter taste if not handled with care.

5. Points to Note While Brewing

1. Tea Quantity
   The amount of tea used varies based on personal taste, brewing method, and the tea’s characteristics. In Yunnan, people typically use about 1:40 or 1:45 tea to water ratio when brewing good-quality tea. For Gongfu tea, the amount of tea may be adjusted according to personal preference.
2. Water Temperature
   The temperature of the water plays a crucial role in the tea’s flavor. Higher temperatures help extract aroma quickly, but can also cause bitterness, especially with high-end teas. The temperature should be adjusted based on the type of tea being brewed. For rougher, older cakes or compressed teas, boiling water is appropriate; for tender, high-end teas, slightly cooler water is recommended.
3. Brewing Time
   The brewing time should be adjusted based on the type of tea. Generally, old or rough teas require longer brewing times, while delicate teas should be brewed for a shorter time.
4. “Washing Tea”
   The “washing tea” process, first mentioned in the Ming Dynasty, helps remove dust or impurities that may have accumulated on the tea leaves during storage. High-quality Pu’er teas should be washed quickly without over-steeping, to avoid losing flavor.

This process not only cleans the tea but also helps to soften the leaves and release their flavor more effectively.

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